At some point, every one of us has pondered the state of our hair: Does it crave hydration? Is it in dire need of nourishment? Or perhaps it requires something more substantial? When our hair appears lackluster and breaks, even after diligently caring for it, the most luxurious shampoos and masks might fall short. The truth is, hair often demands specific treatments: moisture, lipid protection, or restoration. To avoid endless guessing about what to apply next during your hair-washing ritual, I’ve gathered five straightforward tests that will help you uncover exactly what your hair truly needs.
1. Elasticity Test: How Much Moisture and Nourishment Does Your Hair Need?
Elasticity serves as the primary indicator of your hair’s moisture level. This test helps determine how well your hair can retain moisture and how it reacts when stretched. The process will take no more than a minute.
How to Perform the Test: Take a single clean strand of hair (preferably from the middle of its length) and wet it with water.
Gently stretch the strand between your fingers.
Results:
- If the hair stretches but easily bounces back to its original shape, your hair is well-moisturized.
- If the hair stretches and breaks, it’s a sign of dehydration, and it needs more hydration.
- If the hair doesn’t stretch at all and snaps immediately, this is a sign of lipid deficiency, meaning your hair is lacking a protective layer of fats that locks moisture inside. In this case, nourishing oils and lipid-based masks are necessary.
2. Porosity Test: How Quickly Does Moisture Evaporate from Your Hair?
The porosity of your hair reveals the state of its cuticle. When the cuticle is damaged or its structure becomes sponge-like, water easily enters the hair but evaporates just as quickly, leaving your hair dull and lifeless.
How to Perform the Test: Collect a few strands of hair from your comb and place them in a glass of water.
Wait for a minute and observe what happens.
Results:
- If the hair floats on the surface, your hair has low porosity. These strands are challenging to moisturize as the cuticle is tightly closed, preventing products from penetrating. Heat application (like using a thermal cap) can help the cuticle open slightly, allowing products to absorb more effectively. A stronger enhancer (penetrator) in your hair care products will work best in this case. Asian beauty products are often a good choice here.
- If the hair gradually sinks to the bottom, your hair has normal porosity. This indicates an ideal balance: your hair retains moisture and absorbs products efficiently. Continue alternating between hydration and nourishment for optimal health.
- If the hair sinks rapidly, your hair has high porosity, commonly seen in damaged strands (especially those lightened with bleach). The cuticle is compromised, allowing moisture to enter quickly, but it also escapes just as fast. For such hair, hydration alone won’t suffice; protection is essential. Masks with oils and proteins will help seal in moisture and keep your hair soft and resilient for longer.
An easier variation of this test is simply to monitor how quickly your hair dries. Highly porous strands will dry the fastest, while those with low porosity will remain damp for an extended period.
3. Strength Test: When Does Your Hair Need Protein Restoration?
Strength refers to the density of the hair, which enables it to withstand daily stressors such as combing, coloring, or heat styling. If your hair feels thin and breaks easily, hydration and nourishment aren’t enough. It’s time for proteins. This test will help you assess whether your hair is suffering from a weakened protein structure.
How to Perform the Test: Take a damp strand of hair and slide your fingers through it.
If the hair tangles, gently try to comb through it or pass the strand through your fingers again.
Results:
- If the hair is smooth and easily glides through your fingers, it’s a positive sign that your hair’s structure is in good condition.
- If the hair tangles or breaks easily, it’s an indication of fragility, signaling a lack of keratin and other structural proteins. In such cases, protein-rich masks and restorative products that penetrate the hair’s core and fortify its structure will be most effective.
4. Correct Care Test: Do the Active Ingredients Stay in Your Hair?
Assessing the appearance and feel of your hair after washing can reveal a lot about its current state. Pay close attention to its shine, texture, and how it feels to the touch.
How to Perform the Test: Wash your hair without conditioner and allow it to air-dry naturally.
Evaluate its appearance and tactile sensations: does it feel smooth, coarse, or shiny?
Results:
- If your hair feels soft, shiny, and maybe slightly frizzy, this indicates a perfect balance. This means your current hair care routine is suitable, and your hair can withstand one or two washes with just shampoo. It retains the right amount of active ingredients for a healthy look.
- If your hair appears dull, feels rough, or is overly frizzy, there’s a lack of balance between moisture and protein. It’s time to adjust your care routine.
- If your hair is excessively frizzy, static, and tangled, this points to an even deeper issue: a lack of proteins and essential amino acids in the structure.
5. Breakage Test During Combing: Is There a Protein Deficiency?
This test is particularly relevant for hair subjected to bleaching or other complex chemical treatments, including powder blondes.
How to Perform the Test: As you comb your hair regularly, observe whether the ends break off. You can do this while wearing contrasting clothing or over a white piece of paper to clearly spot fallen strands.
Check if any of the fallen hairs have a white bulb at the root — these are hairs that have fallen out, not broken off.
Results:
- If only a few hairs (4-5) break, your hair is in great shape.
- If you’re shedding more than 10-15 broken strands, your hair structure is weakened. In this case, it requires serious intervention.
How to Use the Test Results in Your Hair Care Routine?
By conducting these tests, you can pinpoint exactly what your hair is missing. Each test reveals a specific need: hydration, nourishment, or protein restoration. For moisture, look for conditioners and leave-in products with humectants. For nourishment, focus on products with oils and lipids. To restore your hair, find items with proteins, keratin, and collagen.
By following these insights, you can ensure that your hair receives the precise care it deserves, making it healthier, stronger, and more radiant.
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